Margo Hayes

Margo Hayes is an American professional rock climber known for her achievements in both competition climbing and outdoor sport climbing. Hayes began her athletic career in gymnastics before transitioning to climbing at age 10. She joined Team ABC, a youth climbing program in Boulder, where she was coached by Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou. As a member of the U.S. National Team, Hayes has competed in lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering at International Federation of Sport Climbing events.

Hayes gained recognition on the international competition circuit with strong performances at the youth level. At the IFSC World Youth Championships in Arco, Italy, she earned silver medals in both lead and bouldering. In Guangzhou, China, she won gold medals in bouldering, lead, and the combined event, becoming the first American climber to achieve this sweep in the Juniors female category. Hayes has also received the North Face Young Gun Award and a Golden Piton Award in the Sport Climbing category from Climbing Magazine for climbing 14 routes graded 5.14.

Hayes is widely recognized for her accomplishments on challenging outdoor routes. She became the first woman to climb a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route with her ascent of "La Rambla" in Siurana, Spain. This achievement earned her the Arco Rock Legends award. Hayes went on to complete two additional 5.15a routes, "Biographie" and "Papichulo," becoming the first female climber to finish the "9a+ Trilogy." Her journey is featured in the film "Break on Through," part of "Reel Rock 12," which documents her efforts to become the first woman to climb 5.15. The film was shown internationally, including at the Banff Film Festival.

Hayes was one of four women selected for the U.S. Overall National Team as part of the Olympic climbing qualification process. Her final competitive season included an attempt to qualify for the Olympic national team, where she narrowly missed selection. In subsequent years, Hayes has pursued creative interests, releasing music under the name Margo Jain, including the single "Karma" and the EP "Notes to You." A profile in Climbing Magazine explores her career transition, highlighting her roles as a climber, artist, and musician. Hayes continues to be recognized for her contributions to rock climbing and her influence on the sport's progression.